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US Vogue July 1996

"Fashion's New Establishment"
Models & Designers: Christina Kruse, Shirley Mallmann, Kylie Bax, Kirsty Hume, Stella Tennant, Esther de Jong, Elsa Benítez, Trish Goff, Carolyn Park Chapman, Amy Wesson, Unknowns males, Stefano Gabbana, Domenico Dolce, Tom Ford, Helmut Lang, John Galliano, Marc Jacobs, Isaac Mizrahi & Michael Kors
Photographers: Steven Meisel (Models) & Annie Leibovitz (Designers)
Fashion Editor: Grace Coddington
Hair: Garren (Models) & Lisa Mitchell (Galliano)
Makeup: François Nars (Models) & Heidi Lee (Galliano)
Grooming: Losi & Susan Sterling (Designers)

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US Vogue July 1996

"The Light Brigade"
Models: Georgina Grenville, Christina Kruse, Amy Wesson, Esther de Jong, Shirley Mallmann, Carolyn Park Chapman & Kirsty Hume
Photographer: Steven Meisel
Fashion Editor: Grace Coddington
Hair: Garren
Makeup: Laura Mercier

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Vestal itw

Photography Kevin Sinclair
Creative direction Audi Umali,
Styling Renata Gar
Makeup Tadyoshi Honda
Hair Gonn Kinoshita 

 

SHIRLEY MALLMANN

(The Model CoOp)

In the early ’90s, Shirley Mallmann was considered the first Brazilian top model bridging the gap between glamour and sex appeal of the new decade. Known for her unique runway walk, she has walked for countless designers and featured in advertisements for top brands like Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta, Marc Jacobs, Prada, Chanel, Christian Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Gianni Versace, Yves Saint Laurent, Vivienne Westwood, Chloé, Fendi, Givenchy, and the list goes on. But, she is best known for her work with Jean Paul Gaultier, who immortalized her silhouette in his first perfume“Classique,” in the 2002 ad as well as appearing in the Pirelli Calendar photographed by Herb Ritts. She is also an ambassador of the international Sea Shepherd Conservation Society, which protects marine animals. Here she takes us through some of her most memorable fashion moments with Herb Ritts and her collaboration with John Paul Gaultier.

Vestal Magazine __ Before becoming a model you worked at a shoe factory in Rio Grande do Sul — what made you decide to give it up and move to São Paulo to pursue a career in fashion?

Shirley Mallmann  __ At the time, I was struggling to figure out what I wanted to do in my life. There weren’t many options and the idea of trying something new and exciting was what really drove me. I thought to myself, what have I got to lose?!

Vestal __ Did you always want to be a model?

Shirley __ My knowledge of fashion was very limited, only what I would see in some magazines and TV. It looked amazing, but I never imagined it could be possible. At the time, there weren’t any Brazilian Top Models, so we really didn’t know what a model career even was. There was also no Google. But, after doing my first test shoot and getting my first small runway job I knew I loved it, and I had to try to pursue it further.

Vestal__ Take us back to when you started working with photographers like Steven Meisel. How was working with him and what did you learn from him on set?

 

Shirley __ He’s amazing. I feel so fortunate to have worked with him so early in my career because I learned so much. I didn’t even speak English very well, but what struck me was his vision. In the morning, before even getting to the studio, he had already talked to everyone on the set, given directions, and told them what he envisioned for the shoot. And once on set, he directed us so well, how to move, how to work with the lights, the wind. He’s truly a genius.

Vestal__ How do you choose your modeling jobs today?

Shirley __ Once I became a parent, my priorities changed. My family is the most important thing to me. But I also love my job, so today, I aim to divide my time between my work and my family, along with other projects that I have. But when my kids need me, they come first.

Vestal__ You are the ambassador for the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society which protects marine animals. When did you realize that you could use your platform as a springboard for issues that are important to you?

 

Shirley __ When I was young and starting my career, it was a whirlwind. There was very little time for personal projects or to focus on anything besides my career. As I got older, that changed and I fell into a routine. Then I started to become more aware of the world around me and I wanted to help. It’s in my nature, and whenever I see something or hear of something that I think I could make a difference, I try.

Vestal__ What has been your boldest fashion statement?

Shirley __ I honestly have no idea. But I’ve never been shy at my job, and I’ve always enjoyed creating something different, that would cause some kind of reaction. It’s fun. Whenever a photographer said, for example, today we’re giving you a completely different look, a short black wig, or something outrageous, I would get really excited and try to get into character. 

 Vestal Who would you say is the photographer who changed your career?

 Shirley __ Ellen Von Unwerth. She shot me in Brazil for my very first big campaign and a few weeks later called me to New York for an American Vogue shoot. That’s when I got my passport and left Brazil for the very first time. She’s like my godmother.

Vestal__ What is your life motto?

Shirley __ I love life, I love my family and friends. I want to live life to the fullest. I love helping people. It makes me happy. 

Vestal__ How would you describe your style during your teenage years versus your style now?

Shirley __ I was an insecure teenager. Unusually tall and skinny, and that made me very self-conscious. So I liked big baggy clothes, lots of sweaters and sneakers. Now, I’m confident and comfortable in my body. I still like baggy clothes and sweaters, but I also like dressing up in beautiful form-fitting clothes and high heels. Overall though, I would say I’m a jeans and nice boots kind of girl.

Vestal__ What or whom are you most proud of?

Shirley __ My parents. They are my role models. They’ve worked so hard on the farm their whole lives, they’re happy, they enjoy life and they’re the kindest people I know. Not to mention how supportive they’ve always been of my siblings and I. I wouldn’t be where I am without them.

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