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Sass & Bide NYFW Fall 2015

 

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Lela Rose NYFW Fall 2015

 

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Milly NYFW Fall 2015

 

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Tracy Reese NYFW Fall 2015

 

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Academy of Art University NYFW Fall 2015

 

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Parkchoonmoo NYFW Fall 2015

 

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Julien MacDonald LFW Fall 2015

 

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Ashish LFW Fall 2015

 

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Emilio de la Morena LFW Fall 2015

 

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Christopher Raeburn LFW Fall 2015

 

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Sleek: The Visual Contemporary Magazine
 

A Modern Woman: four Antwerp fashion graduates
October 20th, 2014 by Hili Perlson & filed under Print features
 
Artful, conceptual and wonderfully innovative, graduate collections are oftentimes a rather raw outpour of creative ideas; they also provide a telling reflection of the zeitgeist, therefore. Several of this year’s graduates at the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp, looked more closely at notions of gendered garments and the gendering of silhouettes, only to take apart many of the conventions surrounding them. And when it wasn’t the cuts and fabrics they were deconstructing, it was clichéd narratives of womanhood itself: Italian graduate Virginia Burlina, for instance, took her inspiration from the biography of outsider artist Marguerite Sir. Left at the altar, Sir spent her life in psychiatric asylums, where she would make wedding dresses from beddings. Burlina embroidered motifs like hearts, tears, flowers and drops of blood unto romantically hued garments held together by little bows – tiny straps as symbolic reminders of the frailty of the human psyche.
 
The French Emmanuel Beguinot based her collection on a novel by Moroccan writer Tahar Ben Jelloun, telling the story of a girl raised as a boy by her family to ensure a better future for her. Searching for a malleable, gender-neutral silhouette, Beguinot sculpted her creations with integrated plastic wiring. The monochromatic pieces are otherwise classically tailored, and fuse traditionally “masculine” fabrics with materials classically associated with femininity, such as pleated crêpe, silk and velvet. Swedish-Chilean graduate Clara Jungman Malmquist took to “housewife hobbies” like appliquéing, quilting and embroidering and created multi-layered landscapes of inverted patch working, with cutouts making out shapes in bold colors. These were then further augmented by bursts of tulle in unexpected places. With a collection enhanced by experimental jewelry in silicone and wax, she created an original visual statement recalling both Op Art and Indian Mola quilts.
 
Lastly, Austrian Raffaela Graspointner, who won the Austrian Fashion Award in 2013, sought inspiration from the modernist architecture and eclectic interior of the Eames house in L.A. With a mix of laser-cut leather, color blocking in patent leather, elaborate beading and sequin embroidery, her collection gracefully seesaws between slick production and handmade assemblages. Looks by the four young designers are mix-and-matched here in bold combinations for professional women performing the impossible modern balancing act day in and day out.
 

 

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ph: Michäel Smits
stylist: Jan Konings
hair: Louis Ghewy @ The Book Agency
make-up: Eva De Keesmaeker
ph asst: Gretar Ingi Gunlaugsson
 
Full article can be found here.
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