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Vionnet F/W 13.14 Paris


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March 6, 2013 PARIS

By Nicole Phelps

Goga Ashkenazi has made headway at Vionnet since her debut effort last season. She threw a well-attended party in Milan last month to celebrate her acquisition of a cache of Thayaht illustrations of Madeleine Vionnet designs. More importantly, the collection she presented today was more runway worthy than what she did back in September. The thunder-and-lightning opening was corny and the Ancient Greece set, complete with metal columns, overdone, but those are beginner's mistakes, easily corrected next season. The clothes demonstrated a keen attention to our fashion times. Pants were cut high on the waist, roomy through the thighs, and above the ankle, in keeping with current trends, and she put the emphasis on strong shoulders. Hers are squared, not rounded like most of the others we've seen. Vionnet was famous as a dressmaker first and foremost, and there were some pretty numbers here that demonstrated a familiarity with the house's codes, most notably a long, softly draped black dress with a keyhole bodice and a high slit up one side.

Ashkenazi's slipup came with fur. It's just hard to get astrakhan, fox, and other skins to do the kind of draping that silk does. For the time being, it might make sense for her to narrow her scope and pay close attention to the little things. One model carried a handbag all the way around the runway with its paper stuffing about to spill out.

Source: style.com

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WWD's Review:

“A vision of modern femininity delineated in bold, confident brushstrokes.” That’s how the Vionnet show notes described the fall collection, which was billed as the brand’s first fashion show on the official Paris calendar.

Founder Madeleine Vionnet is best known for her Grecian column dresses and the bias cut, and here, owner and creative director Goga Ashkenazi and her design team played with those codes, though with a faint Eighties sensibility that sometimes leaned toward severe.

Elaborately folded coats and dresses were bonded with a contrast-colored fabric — a black jacket showed glimpses of green, a leather skirt revealed blue — for a heavy-handed construction that overwhelmed the garments.

Elsewhere, strong pieces included a tailored blue ponyskin coat and a chic ribbed knit blue sweater over slim-cut pants. Dresses made from different furs patched together and resembling a bias cut were not for everyone, but they still made for some intriguing views.

Ashkenazi’s challenge at Vionnet is to redefine the house formula, thrusting it forward. Fall provided a glimpse into her vision, though the clothes are still a work in progress.

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I greatly enjoy viewing your posts of the fashion shows! Please keep them coming!

Oh! Thank you! Your words mean a lot to me. Flower%20for%20you.gif Anyway I'm not going to post more photos. I do know there are more Paris shows left: Acne, Nicolas Andréas Taralis, Anthony Vaccarello, Willow, Maiyet, Dion Lee, Colette Dinnigan... But I've already posted 70 fashion shows!

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